Blinking eck, Cathy is up at 6am, it’s really cool and almost acceptable for us Brits! After Mrs E has drank her obligatory second cup of tea and plotting our route we quietly, ever so quietly left the free fortress car park and our friends, Jeanne & Tai, until next guys bye for now!
Osijek in Croatia is our destination; an hour later and we are at another border crossing at Backa Palanka, Serbia, although this time it was very straightforward with no waiting or problems. On the other side of the bridge we turned right and headed to the Hotel Danav near Ilok for a break. This part of north-east Croatia is surrounded by Serbia on three sides. We are so close to the border that our phones don’t recognise we are in a different country, which is a shame as our mobile contracts allow data useage in Croatia.
We rest here for a while, it’s very hot today. I suggest a coffee in the shade, hopefully there might be a breeze off the river and maybe we could take advantage of the hotels free wi-fi, well why not? loaded up with all our electronic devices we find a table and chairs with a view of the river and a power point! I did ask before plugging ourselves in! Two coffees and two glasses of water arrive and we read, write and research. The hours slip by and we become peckish, let’s have lunch here, it’s a pleasant spot, not busy and we can justify the cost as we intend to free camp here tonight.
Free car park at the side of the Danube, Ilok, Croatia
Looking at the border bridge and Serbia
Coffee break i n the shade but it’s still 29c
We decide to move on and not stay here, nothing wrong with the location, we just wanted to get to Osijek, we set off at 3pm, maybe it was a mistake not to stay here, we are driving in to the sun and the heat intensifies as we travelled, Cathy was melting, we can’t believe it’s 37 in the van, the air con can’t cope, the air outside is hotter than inside, so there’s no point opening any windows. We pull over for fuel and a chilled drink from the garage, Cathy is not feeling well and we needed to stop. We can’t contain our excitement at spotting a LIDL, another reason to stop, shop and cool down! we love Lidl!
In the cab, how hot is it ??? unbelievable!!!
The forecast is 95-99% humidity, we are eager to get to Osijek, get out of our very hot van, set up camp & cool down at another free spot by the river. The car park is huge, it’s almost deserted, no signs about payment or restrictions, park where you want kind of thing, there’s plenty of grassy areas, it’s part tarmac, part cobbles, level and thankfully there’s lots of shade from the large number of trees.
Now it’s 10pm and it is still hot at 28 at this time of night! it is such a still evening. We are tired, a little frazzled and we can’t be bothered to eat, so we lie down on the bed and try to relax in the heat. The nearby fairground is pumping out music in to the still night. We are restless, suddenly at midnight the wind appears from nowhere blowing cool air through the trees, we lie there with the windows fully open enjoying the coolness, it feels so much better now! A storm quickly follows and as the temperature drops we fall asleep.
We are up at 6am and left Camping Kate ever so quietly at 6.40am, we made the 7am appointment at the garage, Omega Garage Services easily enough, it was only 11kms away. We have decided to have the squealing noise investigated Continue reading →
(we haven’t had good enough wi-fi for a few days now to upload photos so we are playing catch up!)
It’s our second day in Dubrovnik, we’ve decided to get the bus again, there is a ferry from Mlini which would be a nice view, but the bus is cheaper, so we head off for the 9.40am, it’s much cooler this morning, we decide we’d like to go up the cable car to Mount Srd, it’s a small stroll to the starting point, there is a queue but it’s moving quickly, we are transported the 415 metres in 4 minutes, the view over the city walls is fantastic, it’s such a beautiful city, we can clearly see the fort and the wall, people walking along them look like little ants from our aerial position, the red roofs of the old town contrasting against the grey walls of the old city, you can see which roofs are new after being rebuilt after the 1991 shelling as they are a lighter brighter shade of red. We took in the panorama from the view-point and a photo opportunity, then we made our way to the Museum inside the Imperial Fort, this is dedicated to the Croatian homeland war of 1991 -1995. Pictures and information on the walls, it’s difficult to quite get a grasp on the politics of the war, there was a video which mainly consisted of news reel from ITN news from 1991 showing the shells raining down on the city, it was a strange situation for me watching the film because I clearly remember the news reader/reporter on the ground with Dubrovnik in the background and the ITN news. I would have been 30 years old at the time and Yugoslavia was a place I had always wanted to visit, I remember wondering if I would ever come here.
Dubrovnik old city from Mount Srd
from the cable car
We take the cable car down and go for a short walk through Stradun within the city seeing it with new eyes and looking closely for the evidence of the destruction that it had suffered.
We found a sports pitch high up within the city walls!
pitch of the day!
We didn’t go in to any more churches or museums this time, instead we opted to sit on Banje beach overlooking the old town and marina buying two sandwiches and some crisps from the local shop which we passed, it was then that we realised that the loud music which we could hear from up the top of Mount Srd, the local kids had finished school for good! Just like at home they had written messages all over their shirts, they were having a huge party with fireworks going off all over the place, we assumed the police presence was for their protection
we only broke one rule!
The signs on the steps said no food to be taken on to the beach but we ignored this as its normally there because there’s a private bar on the terrace, there is no way you can stop families eating and drinking on a public beach, there were other restrictions too as you can see from the photo, we sat on some rocks and it was hot now! I needed my hat and so did Dave.
Dave and hot hat weather
The heat was getting to us now so it’s up those steps again and back to camp, I cooked outside, Dave acting as sous chef and chopping loads of veggies, courgettes, peppers and potatoes to make a veggie curry, we don’t mind spicy food when its hot strangely. We have to be up early tomorrow as we have a 7am appointment at a garage to check the front brake squeal, so we packed away the awning canopy, chairs and tables, off to bed early, all the windows are open for some air!
It’s boiling hot today at Camping Kate in Mlini, Dubrovnik, the BBC weather says is 28° but it feels likes 31° , it’s humid and there is not much breeze, we’re keen to go into Dubrovnik but we decide to sit on camp in the shade and go Continue reading →
We will leave Prapratno Camping near Ston today but not before we take a swim on that lovely sandy beach, we made coffee and took it in some takeaway cups and with our chairs down to the beach, the water here is shallow, no stones at all just lovely soft sand and what a pleasure it was and also surprisingly warmer than other beaches have been. The rugged mountain range bearing down on the aqua bay, we left Ston without really seeing any of the history or walking the walls, we paid €14, £12.50 per night, good value we though, we said goodbye to Friedl and Charles and we hope to see them in Vienna in the future or on the road, you never know? Dave puts the coordinates in to Sat Naff for our journey to Dubrovnik, we’ve chosen Camping Kate which is 10kms at Mlini further on a bit from Dubrovnik but with a bus into the city, it’s a steady journey and the views are superb, and we didn’t think they could get any better.
The coast and the impressive grey, green rocky mountains continue to surprise us, it’s so high and steep the houses below seemingly clinging on like limpets, cars parked at such angles you wonder how they don’t roll, we crossed a modern tall bridge just before entering Dubrovnik. Continue reading →
Last night we were at Baško Polje camping for one night, it was just a resting place for us as we’re going to Ploče to catch the car ferry to Trpanj on the Pelješac peninsular, we are heading for Dubrovnik, the ferry runs three times a day off-season, and apparently it’s not summer yet! We find this so strange as the weather is glorious and us Brits are definitely in summer mode! Continue reading →
Last night we made our way to Dubrovnik from Split where we had our rear brakes repaired, we made the decision not to go through Bosnia, the Croatian Coastal area has a brief pause at Neum. Bosnia received 12 miles of coast during the break up of former Yugoslavia. We do not have motor-home insurance for the 12 mile stretch which we would need to drive, we could buy it at some of the border checkpoints but not at Neum it seems, we’ve read stories of long queues in summer mostly and backhanders plus other stories of being waved through and no payment. We decide to go by sea and road to Dubrovnik via the Peljesac peninsular, this is accessed via a ferry from Ploče, the Peljesac peninsular is supposed to be very nice with one easy road to drive along, from here we can access Dubrovnik, thus avoiding Bosnia & Herzegovina. It was 5pm when we left the garage, so Dave says he’ll drive for a while and we’ll find somewhere to stop in an hour to 1.5 hrs. We’ve been up and down this stretch a couple of times now! (when Cathy lost her hat!)
This morning before we went to the garage I made a meal in the Mr D cookpot so tea is sorted for later. We drive long the Makarska Riviera, it’s absolutely stunning and we didn’t think it could get any better! The roads in Croatia are superb for driving, wide, smooth and nearly always in excellent condition although as we going south and Pogo is left hand drive I am always near the edge and boy! there are some very high roads in Croatia, which also makes for excellent views.
We stop at a view-point for a photo and look at the camper contact website for somewhere nearby to stay, we use the off-line version which saves our mi-fi (wi-fi) and it’s only 10kms away. We are pleasantly surprised when we arrive that the price for the pitch, motorhome and 2 people is only 124kn (€16.79 after ACSI discount). We can park anywhere apparently, but what a strange site this is, it’s massive with lots of trees, just a few people here mostly in caravans, lots of old mobile homes, a pizzeria (shut), a shop that is open, a bar (shut), a restaurant (shut), we ate our spicy veggie tea, the one I prepared earlier, Blue Peter style, give me that badge!
Afterwards we decide to explore this vast place, there were many people about all wearing the same red T shirts? Walking downhill towards the beach area we see tired worn out buildings, a very communist eastern bloc era feel to it, put it with the beautiful Croatian coast – what a mixture!
Some workmen were putting up red bunting, there was lots of laughing and joking I said they were drunk! Dave says they’re just happy! when one of them decides to pee at the edge of our pitch I know he’s drunk….. 😦
Down on the beach there is a lovely sunset and we stroll along the wooded area offset by pine trees, the smell of blossom in the evening air, more of the red T shirts, we walk past another hotel on the edge of the site with lots of loud music, sounds like a party.
Another beautiful sunset at Basko Plojce
And lots more red T shirts, we find out later that it is a convention for a Croatian food manufacturer and what a party they were having, we sat in a little rocky cove just listening to the waves whoosh up on to the rocks, such a natural sound but with a party beat in the background.
Back at Pogo we head to the shop, we have no water left and Dave can’t be bothered to find the fresh water point in this huge place in the dark, so it’s a giant beer in a 2 litre plastic bottle
It’s the same one we have been drinking, Ozujsko, just £3.30 for 2 litres. Made use of the camp site showers in G block, it feels like a prison camp, and the worst shower I’ve had so far, most of the water ran out of the door! There were only two to choose from and someone had designated the other one as their personal shower, soap, shampoo and flannel all ready to go!
We’ve off to bed early as we tend to rise early and we’re excited to be heading en-route to Dubrovnik.
Wednesday, Thursday & Friday 16th,17th & 18th May 2018
A quiet and undisturbed night’s sleep on the free spot in Split, we have a few hours before we need to move and its cloudy and raining a little. We relax and just chill out. Left at 2pm and drove to the garage, the appointment was arranged for us by Goran at Camping Croatia (Goran was very helpful, thank you Goran!) we are greeted warmly at the garage and asked to wait a few minutes and Ivo the owner comes in to the van to help us, it’s established that there’s a fuse problem in the Electroblok, I had put a new one in, but it must have fused again! Fuse changed and presto there is power now to the pump, they check the water pressure switch and that is ok and working, so the water pump is broken, it’s odd as this was replaced in March 2018. Ivo goes back to the office with our pump in his hand and we wait patiently, 30 minutes and he is back with 2 new water pumps. Wires one up and tests, all okay now & he plumbs it in, primes it and we now have running water. Ivo is a friendly, chatty guy and we asked if they could do an inspection on the rear brakes as we can hear squealing and we think it’s from there and can they check the tyre pressures too? we arranged to return tomorrow 2pm.
Now we have a spare one
The garages in Croatia seem to have all auto services under one roof and this is very common here, this one does Motorhome servicing for Camping Croatia, the bill was 974kn (€132) for 2 new pumps, piping, clips and 2 hours labour plus 25% tax, the service was quick and efficient, and we felt the price was reasonable.
We park again at the free spot at Kasjuni Beach bar, need to recover some costs but we are relieved to have the water pump fixed that we go to the bar for a small beer! Only one though as this bar is expensive, it’s UK prices and we’re not used to that on this trip, there are 3 or 4 vans here now for the night. Later that night we watched the thunder and lightning illuminate the darkened sky over the headland, this is the 2nd thunderstorm in this spot is someone trying to tell us something?
We wake the next day and research Dubrovik, how to get there from Split, either via land driving through the Bosnia borders or by sea taking a ferry to Trpanj on the Peljasac peninsular and drive down the land peninsular to Dubrovnik, we can’t decide at the moment and we have a few hours before going back to the garage. We squeeze in an hour or two’s sunbathing at the beach.
At the garage we pull on to the very steep forecourt from the busy by-pass, Tomo starts work and removes the rear passenger side wheel after chocking the van upon 3 wheels, I look at Cathy and she knows what I’m thinking, we are on a steep slope! it’s a very small area for them to work so all space is utilised, not to worry they bring out 2 massive wooden blocks to go behind the front wheels and 2 more for the rear.
Our motor-home is based on a Fiat Ducato.
Drum removed after lots of hammer work
Shoes removed & inspected
Cylinder inspected, and the seals are seeping
New cylinders ordered
New shoes in stock and are being fitted
Tomo notices the suspension strut mounting are badly worn and crumbling
No hesitation from us, we want these replaced as well.
Suspension struts mountings ordered
Brake shoes fitted to the other side
All the parts are fitted, tested, adjusted
Handbrake tested and adjusted, all within 3 hours!
That’s a massive block of wood!
Tomo hard at work
Suspension strut mounts
That looks bad!
It was so hot and the lads were working outside without shade. We were very pleased that we discovered these faults before we broke down somewhere and we are satisfied they have done a great job.
Repair bill for this work was 2,284kn (€309.50) but we have peace of mind now.
Cathy has always said the van feels soft and bouncy inside and its especially noticeable whilst driving, the new suspension strut mountings have eliminated much of this movement thankfully.
We drove off and after 1km with the windows open it’s still squealing, must be the front??!! Oh well the rear needed doing so we’ll source another garage near Dubrovnik. We head south on the coast road and we will pick a site after an hour or so’s drive.
Bad midge bites for us both this morning, up and sprayed ourselves with citronella essential oil spray hoping to prevent any more attacks! There’s a Camp Vira mini bus at 9.30am that takes us into Hvar, costs 25kn, £3 per person one way, it’s too far and hilly to walk and we are sharing with a friendly Dutch couple. In Hvar at the bus station and we are looking at the town map and we hear “hiya Cathy” we turn around and see Kate who we met on Camping Krka, what a coincidence! We have a quick catch up chat as her husband Dave and children Poppy and Tom are going on a boat trip to one of the islands in a few minutes.
We make our way to the centre, the old square, next to the marina with the usual food and drink places dotted around the edges. A stage is being erected in the square for a festival or maybe a concert in a day or two’s time. The town is overlooked by the impressive fortica castle high up on the hillside. Walking from the old square we slowly climb up through the narrow steep steps of the old town towards the fortica, it’s best to do this in the cooler morning rather than in the afternoon. There are pretty flowers, colourful shrubs and trees with blossom lining the pathways outside the houses. There’s a mediterranean park that we stroll through on our way upwards to the fortica that provides shade and protection from the heat of the morning sun and with plenty of great views over the town of Hvar, the marina and the other islands, all around the island of Hvar there are stalls selling Lavender oil and Lavender pockets, Cathy loves lavender and the smell lingers as we walk past.
from the fortress above Hvar town
Once at the top we sit and enjoy the moment and take in the views, peaceful up here and there’s blue water everywhere you look. Sometime later a chap sits next to us and we got chatting, Ken is from Philadelphia, USA and touring Croatia with his wife Nancy and a group of other couples, he told us he has the day off from his wife today! We have a really humorous time with him exchanging stories about travelling in different parts of the world. It was a pleasure to have met him.
We head back after an hour down to the square and it’s time for some refreshments, we pick a bar in the shade, drinks ordered, we noticed the atmosphere of loud laughing and joking flowing across the gentle air from inside the bar through a window, outside there are two local ladies sat nearby chatting, they are having a very expressive talk with the waiter! the Croatians are not the quietest people when talking, they are very expressive and we love the buzzy atmosphere they create as we try to listen to the words there’s no chance we will understand but we wish we did!.
It’s time to explore Hvar and get lost in the town, we came across the 15th century Franciscan Monastery built in 1461, we go inside to explore we see the Last Supper painting by Venetian Matteo Ingoli from the 16th century, it measures 8 metres x 2.5 metres. In the courtyard there is a tree believed to be 500 years old with elliptical shaped branches which is very unusual apparently and it’s the oldest Cyprus tree in Croatia. In the museum there is a small number of artefacts including lots of Roman urns discovered on the sea beds near Hvar, we can’t believe how intact they are.
huge Christ on the cross inside the Franciscan Monestary
Roman urns from the sea floor , not how intact they are considering
The branches are supported with posts and the shape of branches look odd.
we couldn’t stop looking at this tree
My legs are becoming hot & irritable from the bites and I want to cool my legs off in the sea, we stroll around the promenade which stretches for miles in both directions from both sides of the town.
Once cooled off we sit and watch the paying customers alight from their boat trips, most look a bit ill and they certainly don’t look like happy paying customers, in fact they look like they haven’t had a good time at all! The boats are like rubber speed boats, Cathy says no way would you get me on one of those, not for a big gold clock! One of her mums’ sayings apparently.
St Stephens Cathedral
Cathedral of St Stephen was built on the remains of a 6th Century church, we went inside and saw a glass coffin raised high up on a mount, it looked like a body was actually in it? allegedly the tomb still has the remains of one of the bishops, behind a Perspex screen, urrgg – other than that there wasn’t much to see to be honest.
We’ve not eaten today and were watching the budget so it’s a cheap lunch/dinner of French fries and they were very satisfying and good ketchup too, caught the 6pm mini bus back to the site and it’s a very warm evening so we go for a swim in the coves warm sea water, this time with our water shoes! Watch out for those spiky sea urchins there’s many of them but easy to spot as the water is crystal clear.
We woke up and discovered the water pump isn’t working, I spent a few hours trying to fix it, actually hoping from my earlier experience that I’ll have it sorted pronto. No success so I called Dad for advice and help as you do, thanks Dad! We didn’t fix it although, I did get it working with a separate 12 volt supply from the cigarette lighter and aux. point but it only worked for a few minutes.
There’s no running water in any of the taps or toilet flush, it’s not a big problem as we easily adjust to using less water and being economical & practical. We filled our bottles and 5 litre plastic containers with fresh drinking water before we left.
A few hours have passed now and we are planned to move 35 km to Jelsa today, I went to pay the sites fees at Camp Vira Hvar and I asked for a discount because nothing was open on the site, no restaurant, no bar, no shop, no wifi. The receptionist called her boss and permission was given for a reduced bill, there’s no ACSI discount here as well. We were on an A grade pitch, so she gave us the B pitch price and a 5% discount and I was satisfied with that 374kn (€50.50) saving about 70kn (€9.50), Cathy was impressed as I never bargain she is the one who barters.
Camp Vira and our pitch
Cathy met a couple from Bury near Manchester, not far from us at home only about 10 miles, Cath & Adrian, we got chatting as you do and we left a little while later for Camp Grebisce in Jelsa 35kms away.
It’s again a lovely well run family business in another super location with plenty of terracing and access right on to the small beach, the first one we have seen with sand. Reception says it’s a short walk 3.5kms to Jelsa and to try the restaurant Me & Mrs Jones, as we walk along the promenade at Jelsa we hear loud car horns behind us, we see a long line of cars, vans and one truck behind us, driving slowly for maximum effect, headlights and hazards flashing, guys leaning out of their car window, everybody is cheering and shouting, then we see bright red flares held out of the cars! Apparently, the football team in a neighbouring town has won the League title for Croatian Islands League and they want everybody in Jelsa to know this! Its all friendly banter and laughing as they drive through a non-vehicle access and non-driving section of the town, later we see them up at the church on the hill overlooking the town with flares, smoke booms and flags, they really know how to celebrate! and 15 mins later they all appear at the marina again driving slowly through the town!
After our meal at the restaurant Cathy asked the lady manager about walking back to the camp site and maybe it’s not lit? it’s not lit, ok is it possible to get a taxi maybe we asked? Don’t worry my cousin will come & take you home, amazing! ok let’s have another glass while we wait, there’s no rush, 2 glasses of the local red wine arrive, and they are free, really they are great people.
view from Me and Mrs Jones restaurant
The cousin arrives and well you can’t miss him, he is very tall and well built, we walk to the car with him, we find that he’s 2.3 metres tall, 7ft 6’’, he used to play basketball professionally in Split and now after training for 10 years he sings classical and opera music, check out me on you tube he says, I couldn’t find him though. We tried to pay him for the lift and wouldn’t take it, so we told him please give the money to his cousin the lady at the restaurant, he finally agreed. He was so pleased to have helped us, he came out of his home on Saturday at 10pm to drive us home, the Croatians really are the most kind and loving, helpful people we have come across.
We buy a huge loaf of brown bread from reception at Camp Grebisce 14kn, £1.66 makes super toast topped with locally made fig jam we bought at a stall in Krka. Another hot day and it’s a stay at home admin, (note home is now our van pogo) laundry day kind of day, we have free Wi-Fi here so we make use of it. Cathy is on the phone to her sister when the couple we met yesterday go cycling past, Cathy gets their attention and Cath & Adrian come and meet us. Kettles on and we have a great couple of hours with them, such a lovely couple, friendly, warm, funny with many travellers’ tales to tell, it was great finding out what they have done and where they had been in the world. Wine and salted roasted almonds also from Krka come out and a few hours pass, we agree to meet up again tomorrow and the arrangements will be finalised via texts, well no admin or laundry was done today, thanks guys! There’s always tomorrow and the water pump is still not working.
Facetimed our son in Toronto in the evening and that was really good to “see him” and catch up. It will not be long before he flies home in October for a 2-week holiday.
Next day is admin day and as I write a blog, Split & The Tower of Terror, we received a text from our new friends – they are moving to this site for one night and we should get together for a few drinks, so that the evening organised for later, really looking forward to it. Walked to Jelsa for bits and bobs for tonight and we comment on the beauty of Croatia, the raw nature, the simplicity of our surroundings and the fact that there is not a lot of development and commercialisation, it’s fantastic the way it is at the moment. There’s always some kind of maintenance happening but is for constant small improvements to enhance the area.
The colours of the water with the sunlight on it is a mixture of many blues, greens and near the shallows it’s a combination of greys and little browns leading to crystal clear water where you see maybe to 3 feet depth. We constantly admire the colours, the locations, safe areas for families to enjoy themselves by the sea, swimming pools naturally created in the quiet bays and coves.
Down at Adrian & Cath’s van we sit outside eating their homemade minestrone soup, how good is their soup, well its very tasty washed down with a bottle of sparkly they had chilling! Perfect! They have been saving it for a special occasion, we feel honoured, after a while another couple join us, Alexandra and Frank from Kastle in Germany, they brought out a speciality sausage from their home town followed by stollen and chocs! We had a great night with them all! Thank you, Adrian, Cath, Alexandra & Frank.
Last night Frank offered to help with the pump and he appears this morning with his tool kit and a pump in his hand, it’s a spare he carries he says! Multi meter out and confirms there is no 12v supply to the pump, checked the fuses and electroblok EBL 99 as well, nothing is happening.
Cathy thinks something isn’t right as some things were working last night before bed and now nothing working in the van on 12 v.
As we sit outside Alexandra and Frank both say we should go to Split to have it fixed, there’s a better chance there than at Dubrovnik. They know Croatia well and we heed their advice, Alexandra gives us a contact for a repair chap on the mainland through facebook, We research repair shops, garages etc in the Split area, we go to reception and they kindly ring the garages for us but no one can fit us in as they are all too busy.
We decide to go back to Split but on the 2-hour ferry rather than drive easterly to ferry at Sururaj. Now the electric step will not retract, well we can’t drive with the step out, off Cathy goes to find Frank and I get the handbook out! Frank and Alexandra come along, Frank is testing the fuses on the EBL 99 block and at the same time Cathy tries the 12 v rocker switch on the panel, flicked it on and the step works along with the other 12v supplied equipment! It must have been pressed down where it breaks the circuit at some point, oops feel silly now, however the pumps still not working.
Quickly settle the site bill 544kn for 3 nights, €24 or £21 a night and leave for the ferry to Split, it leaves in 30 mins and it’s 20 min drive from here, we turn up at the end of the queue, nip in to the ticket office, paid €90 and drove on, we were lucky as it set sail literally 4 mins later. Its been a rush and Cathy forgot to take her tablets an hour earlier so it’s no good now, the two hours pass, she says she didn’t need the tablet she was ok, we dock and make our way to our night parking spot.
In Split we drove 9kms to our free beach parking spot that we have stayed at previously, we might need a few free nights to pay the water pump repair bill. Whilst sat here Cathy makes contact with Camper repair people and we get a bit of luck with Croatia Camper Split depot (they do hire campers) Goran arranged for us to go to a garage that they use for repairs where they might be able to help, 12 kms away tomorrow at 3pm, we agreed to this, how helpful are these people! We are amazed at their generosity.
We sit in darkness in our free parking spot and watch the lightening illuminate the skies over the headland before bed.
Hopefully we will have the water pump fixed tomorrow.