Bergamo – an undiscovered gem

Monday 9th April 2018

Dave posting,

This morning we are waiting for the No.5 bus at the stop outside the Sosta and Cathy asked a young lady if we were in the right place for the bus in to Bergamo, she was very helpful, friendly and spoke good English, little did we know that we would need her help again later in 10 mins! Once on the bus you have to buy a ticket from the machine either cash or card but not from the driver, we tried to buy a ticket, but the machine didn’t work for us, the young lady helped us once again and as we tried to buy a ticket with her help, three bus ticket inspectors got on, the young lady said “you can get off quickly through the other door if you want to”. We said we are ok, no problem, the ticket inspector came along & our new friend explained that the machine isn’t working, and we had tried to pay! He quickly fixed the problem, he inserted a new till receipt roll in! Two tickets later and our friend explained where to alight and to catch bus no.1 for the Citta Alta (Upper town) and the funicular. Apparently, our bus ticket of €1.50 is valid on all city transport bus and tram and funicular for 75 mins from time of purchase!

It is only 40 minutes since leaving the site and we were stepping off the funicular at La Citta Alta we found the Tourist Information office & left with our obligatory maps, outside the tourist info is a board with free City Wifi, nice one, just log on , as we wandered up the hill and discovered the most wonderful shops selling what looks like the best food in the world, the Italians have a great knack of presenting food, drink and atmosphere through their windows and entrances…. Cathy loves looking at the range, variety and different styles & types of food, how it is made, presented & served, she was in her element!

The weather was not good to us it was pouring with rain and we needed to escape, we were feeling a bit peckish, so it had to be coffee time but also with something to compliment it, how about some Arancini?

Bergamo Food & Drink (4)Bergamo Food & Drink (6)Bergamo Food & Drink (8)

Well the Arancini were fantastic, neither Cathy or I have had Arancini before and we loved them! Arancini are soft rice balls with a lightly deep fried outer, the centres are filled with a variety of foods, Cathy’s was pistachio, mozzarella and blue cheese, mine was mozzarella and ham, gorgeous! the bill was only €9.50 for two coffees which were the best we’ve had so far (we love good coffee!) and two arancini’s, very reasonable. It’s called Il sole in Bocca, it was a tiny place with only 8 seats.

The rain has eased now as we go outside and make our way to Basilica Saint Marie Maggiore, OMG, forgive the pun! What a magnificent place, we were taken aback at its outstanding beauty, the vibrant colours, every inch decorated, the architecture, it was so beautiful, the photos might not show the detail, the work and craftmanship. We didn’t speak we were in awe. I had to sit down as I became emotional. We are not religious, but you cannot ignore the hidden history, the stories, the emotions, over thousands of years, we felt privileged to be here and having this experience. It has a Romanesque exterior with a Baroque interior and there were many relief sculptures on the ceiling.

Please zoom in to appreciate the beauty.

bergamo (19)

Basilica entrance on the left

basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore (14)basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore (10)basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore (9)basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore (8)basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore (5)basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore (4)

Apologies for so many pictures but I wanted to convey all its beauty. Parts of the Basilica dates from 5 AD

 

Once we caught our breath we visited the Duomo (cathedral) next door, all of the historic sites are within short walking directions inside the city walls.

Bergamo Duomo (9)

Duomo

Bergamo Duomo (10)

Duomo ceiling

Bergamo Duomo (2)

Duomo ceiling

Bergamo Duomo (4)Bergamo Duomo (6)

The Duomo Di Begamo was not a disappointment in any way with its gold relief but after the extravagance and outstanding beauty of the Basilica maybe the Basilica should be visited at the end of your day. (it’s closed between 12 and 2pm)

The rain ceased, and the warm weather arrived, we wanted to walk the city walls which are Unesco Heritage and are 16th Century built by Venetians on old roman foundations and off we go to find them. What an amazing place Bergamo is, whilst walking the walls we can see the creativity of using the surrounding land and the terracing is fantastic, maximum use and reward of their land, they even manage to squeeze a football pitch in! and the views down to Citta Bassa (lower town) are great with many street still covered in cobblestones.

bergamo (51)

Bergamo City Walls (7)Bergamo City Walls (13)

Bergamo City Walls (10)

A triangle football pitch!

There are many executive and exclusive properties can be seen from the highwalls with a backdrop of the mountains.

There’s no wonder the Italians love there their super mini cars here, the paths and roads are so narrow, but no they drive across and down them no bother! Sometimes we felt we were in the scene of Michael Cain’s Italian Job!

We head off down the hill to Bassa town leaving the marvelous old town behind, the walk was easy enough going down and pleasant with a warm breeze, now we are thirsty! We’ve walked and toured for 5 hours! We stop at a restaurant at the main boulevard with an outside area for patrons behind glass screens as the Europeans do so well! Two medium lagers please, they come with peanuts, olives and crisps, they are great at this aren’t they! They must put something on the snacks because the next thing we know we are ordering two Margarita pizzas and more lager! This is our first meal out since leaving home!

Bergamo Food & Drink (3)

Pizzas were really good, crusty light thin dough base just how we like them. Paid up €31.50 And we walk to the tram station to catch one back to the site, the tram runs past the site as well, cost €1.30 each and only took 10 mins.

Well that was a brilliant day and one we will never forget, we can’t recommend Bergamo enough and we are glad we didn’t miss it.

Bergamo seems to be off the usual tourist trail and maybe it’s an overlooked area, we would recommend a visit to Bergamo.

Dave

What did she say?

 

Sunday 8th April 2018

Cathy posting,

Up early and went for a 6.5k walk along the riverside and into the village near the sosta. It’s a pleasant enough place with lots of people cycling, running, walking, jogging and fishing, strange thing that we noticed in Italy is lots of people exercise and yet there are cigarette machines at the side of the road & near car parks, it’s an odd contrast.

Chiavenna (2)

There are many small holdings very close to residential properties

 

Chiavenna (5)

Cathy loved this rose tree

We are surrounded on three sides by huge tall mountains making us feel like we are in the bottom of a bowl.

Chiavenna (7)

Surrounded by mountains in Chiavenna

ChiavennaCD (3)

Chiavenna (3)

Lots of old style alpine roofs, the stones are holding the slates down

We had a nice chill out after lunch, did some blogging, the usual van services, water etc and set off. We had decided upon Bergamo, the research suggests it’s an amazing city with loads of history, wonderful views from the Venetian city walls from 16th Century, we fancy a bit of that.

Chiavenna (1)

We got stuck behind this chap for miles! (Piaggio)

Travelled on the SS36 road which is basically a motorway through tunnels alongside the east side of Lake Como, the tunnels were not very pleasant to drive through, every now and then there was a view but before you could say ”Bob’s your uncle” we were thrown into darkness again!

Whilst driving along it dawns upon Dave that the numbers on the speed sign i.e. 90 is the minimum speed that the Italians think they can drive at! There were some scary moments and the air was a little blue!

We’ve noticed the Italian roads are a bit rough compared to Switzerland & Germany, it’s a game of dodging the potholes, from Lecco at the Sothern end of Como it was a horrible drive to Bergamo, roundabout after roundabout every kilometre for many kilometres.

Sat Naff can’t speak French very well, she doesn’t have any German or Swiss either and she most definitely can’t speak Italian! (apologies for the lack of focus on the video)

We were going to stay at a free car park but when we got there we didn’t like the feel of it being on a corner of two busy roads, also we’d located a campsite just 4 kms outside of Bergamo centre, for €18 per night plus it has a bus and tram stop right outside the gate for Bergamo.

We arrive late just before 8pm and it’s not busy, so pick your spot.

We tried to ask questions of the lady who runs the site and we’ve had success with google translate however tiredness and not having reading glasses on again and I managed to communicate with her in Romanian, no wonder she looked confused!

Gnocchi and pesto for tea and the evening was spent researching Bergamo.

Cathy

White Turf

Saturday 7th April 2018

Cathy posting,

By the way I have updated two previous blogs, Lost In France with a video, click here and the Imperia Statue in Konstanz, click here.

We are still on the pass in Rona. It’s a lovely sunny but cold morning in the shadow of snowy capped mountains, we considered driving along the west side of Lake Como but it will take too long as we plan a stay at Lake Garda, we’re on a mission to get to Garda as we were there in 2008 on a motorbike and the mist came down to ground level and we couldn’t see the lake even though we were stood on the edge at Val Di Sogno on the North East of Lago di Garda, So we head off through the sunshine towards the Julier Pass, the scenery is outstanding.

road to Rona from Chur (13)

Julier Pass (2)

Julier Pass (9)

We found driving on the pass amazing, some very tight hairpin bends with fantastic views, there were a few very green areas but mostly snow capped mountains, the pass is up and down, the sunshine through the window made it feel like 25°  but in reality it was about 16°

Dave coped well even with the hairpin bends.

Finally we descended and near St.Moritz we see a huge frozen lake.

Then we realise we’ve been here before, yes, you’ve guessed it! On the motorbike in 2008. The St.Moritz lake and it’s the place where the “White Turf” happens each February on the frozen lake, not summer!! as I said on the video! This is a horse race on the frozen lake and all the rich and famous gather to watch it, the horses and rider might get a bit damp in summer, ha, ha!

We stopped for a break and lunch, checked the search for sites and camper contact book for somewhere to stay, we decided not to head for Lake Como and instead stopped at Chiavenna, in the Lombard region, the sosta is free with services next to the river and there’s a small supermarket and laundry opposite. However even though we could do some washing we didn’t as the sun decided to make appearance we got our chairs out to enjoy the warmth, plenty of time for chores later.

ChiavennaCD (1)

Relaxing in the sun……

We had a meal that my sister Lou makes me, it’s chicken, gorgonzola, white wine, cream and chives sauce with tagliatelle and I love it and it just so happened the supermarket had the cheese, so it had to be done!

Found some wine for €3.50 and Dave found two large bottles of Moretti for €1 each and some cheaper Pils from Slovenia for €0.49 and the report back was that it was good!.

Cathy